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Chief Walks In Shadows is a Florida State Master Gardener.
He will post information that he feels will benefit everyone as a whole. But basically this will be a question and answer group.
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Chief Walks will answer all questions asked to him directly. He has over 40 years of experience. And a sizable personal research library.
We are here to meet ALL of your gardening questions and/or related subjects.
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The USDA Hardiness Zone Map divides North America into 11 separate zones; each zone is 10°F warmer (or colder) in an average winter than the adjacent zone. If you see a hardiness zone in a catalog or plant description, chances are it refers to the USDA map. To find your USDA Hardiness Zone or use the map below.
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After they bloom, check your spring perennials, plants that come back every year. Have they gotten too big for your garden, or maybe other plants have grown up around them? This may be a good time to divide and replant.
Dividing means separating the plant at its roots. This rejuvenates old plants and gives you free, new plants. While you can divide most perennials any time, it’s best to do it either in the spring or fall.
To prevent damage and keep flowers standing, stake young perennial plants so they won’t topple over and break as they grow.
HOW TO DIVIDE PERENNIAL PLANTS:
The best time to divide perennial plants is when they are beginning to sprout, but they can be divided almost any time of year.
The day before, water your plants and cut foliage back about 1/3.
Divide on a cool or cloudy day, so roots aren’t exposed to heat or sun.
Use a spade or pitchfork to carefully dig up the plants. To loosen deep roots, work your blade or pitchfork back and forth.
Use your hands to pry apart clumping plants. For big clumps, put the root ball on the ground and cut with a shovel, spade or serrated knife until you have as many new plants as you want.
If your plant has a dense root ball, stick two garden forks, back-to-back, into the center. Pull the handles apart to separate the roots. Or use a pruning saw to carefully cut dense roots.
If your perennial has a rhizome or tuber that grows horizontally, like bearded iris, dig it up and use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut it into pieces. Leave at least one bud and some roots on each piece.
Replant the divisions at the same depth they were growing.
Water well throughout the season.
If the weather becomes hot, shade your perennials with a row cover until they are established since dividing perennials stresses the plant.
HOW TO STAKE YOUR SPRING PERENNIALS:
Use stakes, bamboo poles, cages or flower rings to help tall perennials, like peonies or lilies, stand strong. If they are bent or have fallen over, be sure to stake.
Use one stake per for plant with just a few stalks and keep the stake close to the stem.
Tie the plant loosely to the stake by making a figure eight, so the materials won’t cut into it. Keep the ties loose, so the plant can move. Pre-made plant ties can be cut and adjusted to any length without knotting.
To make a cage for bushy perennials, put 3 to 4 stakes around the plant and wrap twine several times around the outside of the stakes.
Be sure your supports are anchored securely.
The time is now!
Tree fertilization is an extremely important topic. If you have a tree in your yard, then at some point you will need to have that tree fertilized. Trees normally exist in a forest area where they receive nutrients through the recycling leaf litter and other plant material. When you put a tree in a landscaped area they often are deprived of these critical nutrients.
Getting your tree proper nutrition is absolutely critical. One way to get a tree proper nutrition is to recreate the natural environment of the tree. Building a mulch ring around your tree is one way to do this. For some people this may be a problem as they may have so many trees that they would have to mulch their entire yard. Mulch alone will not improve the health of your tree but it is a step in the right direction.
You should also spend some time looking at your tree to see if there are any signs of nutrient deficiencies. There are several symptoms of nutritional deficiencies in trees. A slow rate of growth of twigs and trunk can be a sign of nutritional deficiency.
Look back on weather records when you see this and see if you have received enough rain lately. Having a slowly growing trunk can be a sign of a nutritional deficiency, but it also can be a sign of not receiving enough water. If your tree has not been receiving enough water you can simply start watering your tree more often.
Another sign of a nutritional deficiency is smaller than normal leafs or off-color leafs. If you see this type of symptom you should start mulching around your tree and see if the tree reacts. Hopefully your tree will recover if you start mulching around the tree.
You may also see an increased rate of disease or insects in your tree. This could be a sign of poor nutrition or it could be a sign of something else. You should start by trying to improve the nutrition of the tree by mulching. If that does not improve the overall health of the tree you should not hesitate to call in an arborist.
An arborist will be able to see if the problem is nutritional in nature or if there is a larger problem. If there is a larger problem your arborist will be able to make recommendations to you for further action. If the problem is nutritional in nature and mulch is not helping your arborist will be able to recommend other nutritional treatments. These treatments may be able to save your tree and thus preserve your car. An arborist can be a major asset to your yard, especially if you have a diseased tree in your yard.
Fertilizing your tree can help increase its growth and thus is a great step to take to help your yard. Build up mulch around your yard regularly and if that does not get your trees to remain healthy do not hesitate to call an arborist.
I don't know how your weather has been up there in NE Washington Tsoi but if your trees are in buds now like ours are, it is too late.
But ....
You can prune away any broken or diseased branches any time of the year. It's important to get these off and away from your tree so that they don't sap nutrients from the tree.
Wait until just before spring to do any major pruning. Winter pruning is best for any fruit tree.
Make sure you have the right pruning shears for the job. You should have a couple different sizes of shears at your disposal. And make sure they are sharp!
Keep your cuts clean and don't cut so close to the branch or trunk that you gouge it. Also, when it comes to pruning, less is more. You're better off doing more training of your tree early on than pruning a great deal later. If you thinned the pear tree out last year, wait a few years before thinning it again.
Cut back any shoots that spring up around the tree. Also, trim back any branches that are aren't pointing upwards. Branches that seem to be too close to each other and causing friction against each other are troublesome, trim one away to relieve the other.
Get to the inside of the tree. Anything that doesn't get sunshine isn't going to produce fruit. Trim away some interior branches. Your leader, or main top branch, should be solitary. Cut off any competition that has sprung up next to it. Also, watch for whorls and slender spaces between branches. Both should be pruned.
There are a couple good videos on You Tube that you can pull up that will help you get the idea.
Don't be afraid to jump in there and do it yourself. Just be careful and use your own common sense. Follow these guidelines and you'll be a pro after a couple trees. Just remember you'll only have to do this once every five to ten years anyway. Good Luck!
Chief Walks...thank you for your posts...they help me out a lot...gardening is a love of mine. Do have a question that maybe you can help me with. I have a pear tree that does well each year but the branches are sagging really low...is there a way to prune them without hurting the fruit????
Equa Wado
I am always being asked about transplanting blooming shrubs. The rule of thumb is to move spring bloomers in the fall after they have gone dormant and fall bloomers before they wake up in the spring. Moving a plant just prior to its bloom season usually means that you will sacrifice some blooms. Dig your holes and get your soil ready before you dig up the plants from their old location. It's not good for the roots to be exposed any longer than they have to be. Get them replanted as quickly as you can.
Crop Rotation Made Simple - Rotate Your Vegetable Beds for Healthier Produce
Thank you Tsoi Tawodi. One year you might want to leave some of those leaves on the ground to enrich your yard too.
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